.Find the year of your motor on the Mercury outboard chart at a website such as Max Tech Marine (see Resources). Select your outboard's horsepower and click on the link to the appropriate chart. Find the section of the chart that corresponds to your outboard's horsepower. Compare the serial number on your outboard to the numbers on the chart and find the two serial numbers between which your serial number lies. The year your outboard was manufactured will be the year displayed with the lower of the two numbers.
Mercury/Mariner Powerhead IdentificationIn order to provide you with the correct powerhead, the following information is required:1. Model Number and Serial NumberThese numbers are located on the transom bracket of the motor.2.
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Engine Cast Number3 CYL of L# Powerheads: Please provide the cast number for 70, 75, 80, and 90 HP powerheads built between 1987 and 2002. This number is located on the starboard side of the block next to the number 3 CYL. Example: 877 - 8946 - C76 CYL, V6 or 3.0 litre Powerheads: Please provide cubic inch (122, 142, or 153) or litre (2.4, 2.5, 3.0). Also provide the cast number. This number located on the starboard side of the block where the two halves of the block come together. Example: 885 - 9811 - C4Mercury/Mariner Serial Numbers.To Year ModelsYEARSERIAL #YEARSERIAL #YEARSERIAL #C206C2392T0204643205G0990019987A9-B104198G5901999G760.
This may be a little long and a little confusing, but I have two cowl plates on my 50 merc (one above another on the passenger side cowl). The upper one is the vin and I believe the lower one is the patent plate.
They have been painted over and the following raised letters and numbers are visible on the upper plate:50SL.M (I'll leave the number out, so I don't have paranoid people tell me I shouldn't give out my vin)From everything I have found this means it is indeed a 1950 and it was built in St. If I subtract 10,001 from the number it tells me the order number for the St. Louis plant (as opposed to the actual 'serial number' given as it was in production at the St. The 'M' simply means Mercury.The lower cowl plate has the following characters:SLM7403-58-23H48I cannot find a decoder for this.
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I have found a decoder for Fords, but it doesn't work out the same. I have some guesses.The SL may mean St.
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Louis.The M may mean Mercury.The 74 is most likely the model number.The 03 and 58 I can't even venture a guess.The 23H may mean the production date was August 23.The 4 may have something to do with the transmission type.The 8 may have something to do with the rear axle ratio.I wasn't around in the 50's, but I have heard when the new cars came out it was a much bigger deal than today. I have also read that production years started mid August. If the August 23 date is correct, would it have meant August 23, 1949, and been relatively early in the 1950 run? My VIN makes me think it was around the 85,000th mercury ordered from the St.
Would they have churned out that many in a month's time. I know orders and production numbers were not necessarily in the same order, because of parts availability. That leads me to my next question, how many 1950 Mercs were produced? I have read numbers like 283,658, 293,658, and, 344,000. I suspect the 283,658 is right and the 293,658 is a mistake, because the vin numbers started at 10,001. I have no idea where the 344,000 came from.I have read that the one millionth Mercury was built in August of 1950.
One site even said August 1, 1950. Would it have been one of the last 1950's or one of the first 1951's?Does anybody have more info on the one millionth Mercury? I think it would be neat if it turned out a HAMBer had it.Sorry this was so long, I would have posted on the Merc social page, but I figured more people would see it here. I'm hoping somebody like BADBOB or Bruce Lancaster might know these general facts along with technical facts.Thanks for reading. Thanks in advance for replies.
CfnutcaseI checked my 1949 body parts catalog and there is no break down at all for the Patent Plate or the Body Plate. I think it is relatively safe to assume that the 1950 codes would be the same or similar. 1951 codes are similar to 1950 but have different names for the colors on most items and the trim code numbers are all different even though they used similar materials. The xerpt from the 49 thru 51 maintenance manual shows what the 1949 plate location looked like and a basic number break down. It just doesn't show the codes. Paint code 17 was most likely Roanoke Green.
There is no '59' or '59J' trim code listed for 1950 or 1951. It should read like the illustration posted previously from the 49-51 Maintenance Manual. Take another good look at the body plate compared to the illustration to see if something is missing.That car looks more banning blue than green unless time and weather are fooling our eyes. It also could have been resprayed but somewhere on the car in the door jams or trunk it should be original. Most body shops didn't paint the whole car just what you can see.PS: A close look at the maintenance manual above states that a change was made in 1950 in the body code and trim code.
They were stamped on the patent plate in 1949 but I can't find a code break down anywhere in the body parts catalog. The years you asked for (production figures from 'The V8 Album'. A great book by the way!)1939Coupe 7970Tudor 6560Fordor 17193Cvt 79701940Coupe 15107Tudor 15506Fordor 37178Cvt 9212Cvt Sedan 9781941Coupe 1560Coupe w/aux seats 1251Coupe Sedan 12297Tudor 11276Fordor 25922Cvt 6112Woodie 10101942Coupe 718Sean coupe 4942Tudor 5120Fordor 10476Cvt 956Woodie 8971946Sedan Coupe 24163Tudor 13108Fordor 40280Cvt 6044Sportsman cvt 205Woodie 27971947Sedan Cpe 29284Fordor 43281Cvt 10221Woodie 35581948Sedan cpe 16476Fordor 24283Cvt 7586Woodie 18861949Cpe 120616Sport Sedan 155882Cvt 16765Woodie 80441951Cpe 142168Monterey UnknownSportSedan 157648Cvt 6759Woodie 3812. Hi Folks,I found this thread while attempting to decode a set of plates on a very bad old Merc I am thinking about buying. I'm told it's a '49 but There is a lot missing and I'm not totally sure. Below are two representations of the plates on the firewall.
So far as I can tell the top is the Patent Plate and the bottom is the Body Plate.I would like to know if anyone here can tell me if it is a '49 for sure and if so what other information can be decoded from this information I have provided. I specifically need to know what part is the actual VIN number that would be put on a title. If I gan determine that, I can get a title.
The paint on the plates is completely gone, just the stamped in numbers remain. I also am somewhat curious about the asterisks or stars on the top plate. I seem to recall that Ford used those to indicat somethig special on my the old F-100s back in '53. I can't recall exactyly what they represented.I realize this is an old thread but hopefully my post will wake it up and one of you experts out there can respond and help me with this. Any and all help or suggestions as to how to figure this out would be appreciated.Later Folks.Dave.
Resolver queries having fewer than ndots dots (default is 1) in them will be attempted using each component of the search path in turn until a match is found.
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9CM would indicate 1949 Mercury. 9CM74 indicates 4-door Sport Sedan. DBN is most likely Dearborn Mich. The VIN would be the 9CM.39953 (first number on top diagram).
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The 03 on patent plate is likely Banning Blue Metalic. The 60 on the patent plate is tlikely trim code for Blue Gray Stripe Nylon and Mohair or posibly some Blue Gray combination of broadcloth and stripe material.The 1949s are harder to deciphire than the 50 & 51 due to little or no information in the Body Parts Catalog or at least in my copy. A lot of the codes for 1950 are similar if not the same so this is my best educated guess.Kerby.
Click to expand.Thanks Kerby. The most important question I had, you answered. This thing is so bad and missing so much that the other stuff does little more than satisfy curiosity. Apparently rthe double asterisks are just space holders.I was mainly concerned about the actual VIN as I need that to get a title.
If I buy this thing the body will be the only thing I use and it will be put on a custom built chassis of my own design. I just love the look of the '49 Merc and even though the 2 door models are more popular and are worth more, I kind of have a thing for the old 4 door sedans. These things were a part of my youth.Later.
On the later 50 & 51 the spaces in the VIN indicated by asterisks would be the 2 digit manufacturing plant code. DA was used for Dearborn, Michigan but I am not near as familiar with the 49 models as I am the later codes of 50 & 51 since they are published in the individual Body Parts Catalogs. The Body number used in 1949 on the Body Plate is a mystery to me. I don't know if it includes a date code or if it is just a linear body number asigned to the individual bodies after completion but before they are installed on a frame. If anyone else knows the answer, I'd sure like to know too.I'm a Sport Sedan fan as well. I think the suicide doors wouild really set off a custom if it was done with an artistic eye.Kerby. The big question here is amatter of what it's worth.
The guy wants $1,400.00 for it. I can get a title so that is one plus. Next are the rest of the pros and cons as I see them. It is solid although covered inside and out with surface rust.
There seems to be absolutely no hardware like door handles and such. The grille is allso missing as well as the front bumber.
The back bumper looks good in the picture but probably needs re-chromed. There is no engine but there is an old three speed tranny still in it, probably original. All the glass is gone. No interior at all, not even stuff to make patterns from.Here is what I would do with it. First I would get it off the frame and striped down for blasting and epoxy primer. If I were to build it to completion I believe I would fabricate a complete new rolling chassis with F&RIS that would hold up to a big high torque drive train. I'm not sure at this time if I would chop it.
Notice there is a big hole in the roof. I'm not sure why that is but I have several powered moon roofs and I think I could fill the hole. I would approach this project in stages so that I could sell out of it at several stages of the build. I have the ability and the fcacility to do most all of the work to bring it to a full finish so I am not at the mercy of other shops and services. What concerns me more is whether some of the missing body parts and trim are available form aftermarket sources. Various degrees of customizing would of course aleviate some of these needs.
I am not really interested in radical customizing as I am a person from the time of this car and I remember them well.So tell me folks. What do you think? I s it worth it or should I pass it up? I probably would nit be interested it it if I had not always wanted a '49 Merc.
Are there better deals out there? Help me out here folks.Later.
200 PRO VERADO (4-STROKE)(6 CYL.).200 PRO XS (DFI) 3.0L.200 VERADO (4-STROKE)(4 CYL.).200 VERADO (4-STROKE)(6 CYL.).200, 20.20XD (2 CYL.).225 (3.0L CARB).225 (3.0L EFI).225 (3.0L EFI) SEAPRO.225 (3.0L-DFI)(DTS).225 (DFI).225 (DFI) 3.0L.225 EFI (4-STROKE).225 PRO XS (3.0L DFI).225 SEAPRO (3.0L CARB).225 VERADO (4-STROKE)(6 CYL.).25.25 (2 CYL.).25 (2 CYL.) (International).25 (2 CYL.)(2-STROKE)(International).25 (4-STROKE).25 EFI (3 CYL.)(4-STROKE).25 H.P. LIGHTNING (3 CYL.) (INTL. 4.5 (1 CYL.).4/5.4/5 (1 CYL. PRODUCT OF JAPAN).40 (1 CYL.).40 (2 CYL. 75 (4 CYL.).75 (4-STROKE).75 (4-STROKE)(BODENSEE).75 DFI (3 CYL.)(1.5L).75 EFI (4-STROKE).8.8 (2 CYL.)(2-STROKE)(International).8 (2 Cyl.)(International).8 (4-STROKE)(209cc).8 (BODENSEE) 4-STROKE (International).8 SEAPRO (2 CYL.)(International).80 (3 CYL.).80 EFI (4-STROKE).80 JET.80 JET (4-STROKE).80 Jet (3 CYL.)(1.5L).800 (4 CYL. ), 80 (4 CYL.).800 (4 CYL.), 80 (4 CYL.).800 (6 CYL.).850 (4 CYL.).850 (6 CYL.).9.8.9.8 (2 CYL.)(International).9.8 SEAPRO (2 Cyl.)(International).9.9.9.9 (2 CYL.) (International).9.9 (4-STROKE) (323 cc).9.9 (4-STROKE)(209cc).9.9 (4-STROKE)(232 cc).90 (3 CYL.).90 (4-STROKE).90 (6 CYL.).90 DFI (3 CYL.)(1.5L).90 EFI (4-STROKE).900 (6 CYL.).900, 90.950 (6 CYL.).V-115 DFI (2.5L).V-135.V-135 DFI (2.5L).V-140 (INTERNATIONAL).V-150.V-150 (EFI).V-150 DFI (2.5L).
Over the years, manufacturers have changed where this information is located on an outboard. I'll try to be as complete as possible below, while keeping this reasonably simple.
Mercury Outboard Serial Number Missing
MercuryOn older Mercury outboards, going back into the 50's and possibly even earlier, the serial number would generally be viewed at the leading edge of the swivel bracket, as seen in the image below. If for any reason that number may have been changed, removed, or can no longer be read, every Mercury had a freeze plug, which is on the powerhead and about the size of a quarter. That freeze plug will have a serial number on it. So long as you know your HP and the serial number, you can identify the year of your outboard.On later model Mercury engines, the serial number was located on the swivel bracket, as shown in the picture below.
Mercury Outboard Model Number Codes
First, these would be on a metal tag and stamped with the numbers. Later, the numbers were printed on a vinyl tag. Unfortunately, you'll often find that the vinyl tag has washed out. If you can no longer read the number on the tag, you’ll want to find that freeze plug on the powerhead in order to identify the outboard.Johnson & EvinrudeJohnson and Evinrude outboards both work with model numbers for identification. In most cases, the model number is located on either the transom or swivel bracket.
It can usually be found on a either a metal plate on earlier models or a sticker on later models. Once they switched over to the tags, this was another number that often washed out and could no longer be read. In this case, the powerhead freeze plug can be located and will have the serial number. The serial number itself won't do you much good, but an authorized dealer can use the serial number to match the engine up with a model number again.Chrysler OutboardsChrysler outboards work by a model number. There are 2 locations where you may find this number. Early Chrysler models stamped it on a metal plate and it was placed under the carburetors, inside the lower cowling, or pan.
Later models used the same plate, but you'd find it on the side of the transom bracket.Force outboards used model numbers on vinyl tags, many of which washed out. If the number washed out, you may find a small sticker either on the cylinder head cover or the starter bracket.
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If that fails, all is not lost. There are numbers stamped on your carburetor. Take those numbers and google them or email us. Those numbers will usually nail down a year and HP for your engine. Other MakesNissan, Tohatsu, Suzuki, Yamaha, and Yamaha Mariner use both model and serial number information.
Mercury Outboard Motor Repair Guide
That tag can almost always be found on the side of your transom bracket, as shown below.
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